During the Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour in the Netherlands last week, we had the opportunity to meet up with some of the representatives of the Austrian region of Tirol. We talked at length about Tirol, gear and – of course – outdoor & action sports. The topic of climbing routes also came up. With the help of experts, Tirol has selected a number of beautiful climbing routes, which epitomize the enormous variety of rock climbs that the region has to offer. The criteria used to select the best are nature, route and rock quality as well as the mental and physical challenge of the ascent.
LAVANT – ‘ANOTHER PLAY IN PARADISE’
The area around the Dolomitenhütte in the Lienz Dolomites is a paradise for the advanced and expert climbers, with no less than 116 climbing routes waiting to be discovered. With a difficulty level of 5 to 8 on the Austrian scale, these pitches are usually accessible from April to October, although on some routes you may encounter snow due to their high altitude at 1,600 m above sea level, even as late as in springtime.
“Great route on a pitch which becomes more and more exposed the closer you get to the top. Steady, consistent climbing which makes you want more.”
Markus Schwaiger, Austrian Alpine Club.
ÖTZTAL – ‘LE MIRACLE’
Niederthai in the Ötztal is one of the few granite areas and therefore definitely a special place in Tirol. The freestanding block ‘Minas Tirith & Glatteis’ stands in a fairytale-like ‘Felsenkessel’ in a sparse forest at 1,500 meters and offers a fantastic climb on rock hard granite.
“For me personally one of the best rock climbing routes in Tirol. A challenging, long pitch along an impressive vertical crack. Definitely a route that catches your eye!“
Barbara Zangerl, professional climber
LEUTASCH – ‘PULS 2000’
163 Routes, 11 sectors and compact gray lime, these are the core points of the Chinese Mauer (Chinese Wall) in Leutasch. A 20-minute walk will bring you to the climbing area on the south side. In the spring, autumn and winter (when the sun is shining) you will find the best conditions for climbing here.
“Located on the right-hand side of the ‘Chinesische Mauer’, this route offers spectacular views and is one of the most photogenic in the whole area.”
Michael Meisl, photographer and publisher of the climbing guide ‘Tirol – sports climbing in North Tirol’
LÄNGENFELD – ‘WHITE GIANT’
The Nösslach climbing area in the Ötztal lies at the foot of a mighty granite wall above Nösslach and offers a wide variety of climbing options. The excellent rock quality guarantees 58 wonderful climbing routes of the lower and middle difficulty categories. You reach the climbing area in about 10 minutes.
“My favorite climbing route in Nösslach. Beautiful white rock with a cool mixture of small and large holds, cracks and ledges. A real pleasure to climb.”
Barbara Bacher, professional climber & member of the Austrian Climb Team